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| The backpack should have an external pack frame. This type is cooler
because of the air space between the pack and your back. They also provide more
carrying capacity than internal frame packs and they cost less. |
| | Some of the theory behind the design of the pack
frames relates to getting the center of gravity of the pack over the center of
gravity of the body. This accounts for the high frames that are bent forward at
the top. By leaning a little forward while hiking the centers of gravity can be
aligned. A belly band keeps the pack tight to the body and transfers the packs
weight to the body. The belly band should be comfortable with lots of padding.
All frames have an upper web that transmits no pack load, it just prevents
chafing of the back by the frame. The shoulder straps are intended to keep the
pack forward and should not transmit the pack weight to the shoulders. Padded
shoulder straps ease chafing of the shoulders. Most manufacturers have one or
two basic pack frames (in different sizes) and a selection of different bag
styles to fit each frame size. Lots of zippered outside pockets help organize
the pack. |
| | Get sleeping bag straps that
are long enough (at least 48") to also go around a pad and a tent. You can
always cut them shorter if you decide to carry these items elsewhere. Long
straps are also easier to tighten. Attach them so that they will not get lost or
left behind by affixing them solidly to the frame. You can either 1) put a brass
grommet in the strap, drill a small hole in the frame and screw the strap on
(preferred method), 2) get a plastic tri-guide and thread the straps through it
and the frame, or 3) use an overhand knot to tie them to the frame. Be sure to
orient the straps so that you pull down to tighten. About $75-$140 |
 | Try the pack out in the store by putting some
weight in it and walking around for a while. For smaller Scouts, make sure the
belly band will close enough to be tight around the waist. |
 | Choose the largest pack that can be managed as
the extra room will be required for longer hikes. |
 | The Troop has a couple of backpacks for
temporary loan. You can also rent them from recreational equipment stores until
you determine what you want. About $10 per weekend. |
 | The Camp Trails Adjustable II pack has been used
by many Scouts. The medium size is a bit small, but can be used on week long
hikes if you are clever. If your Scout is larger in stature, then a large size
may be appropriate. Camp Trails packs are well made and guaranteed. About
$70. |
 | Avoid packs that use screws as they
come apart at the worst times and the correct size replacement screws are not
always available. The better packs come with pins and split rings. Senior scouts
and adults carry extra pins and rings so do not worry about spare
parts. |
| |
|
| | Nighttime temperatures
generally range in the 40's but occasionally it gets cold enough overnight to
freeze water in a water bottle. It is better to unzip and let warmth out than to
be cold. Here are some things to look for when selecting a sleeping
bag: |
| | | Style: | Mummy bags work well. Semi-rectangular (modified
mummy) bags are more comfy but about a pound heavier. | | Fill: | The bag should have a comfort rating of +20 deg F
and should have a synthetic (polyester) fill. Fill materials vary in cost and
insulation efficiency. The more costly materials tend to provide the best
performance. Currently available fill materials, in approximate cost order, are:
Holofil® II, Quallofil®, Polarguard® HV, Lite Loft, and
Polarguard® 3D. Avoid down bags (see below). | | Shell: | The inner and outer shell should be made of
nylon. | | Size: | Be sure to climb into the
bag before you buy it. Zip it up. Be sure it is not too tight around the hips
and feet. Make sure you can turn over in it. Leave growing room. | | Construction: | Box or slant construction (no sewn
through seams that bring the inner and outer shells together). | | Zipper: | The zipper should zip from both the top and
bottom so that you can let excess heat out. The bag should also have a zipper
draft tube to help keep heat in and so that you will not touch a cold
zipper. | | Hood: | The bag should have a hood
with a draw cord. Climb in and try it. The air hole should be near your
mouth. | | Weight: | A regular size mummy bag
should have a total weight between 3 and 4 pounds. | |
| | Rather than to roll the sleeping bag, nylon stuff
sacks are used with good, lightweight modern sleeping bags. (If it does not come
with a stuff sack, then it probably is not the bag you want.) The stuff sack can
also get used for making a pillow or for bagging food at night to keep it away
from the critters. About $90-$190. Watch for a good sale. |
 | Do not buy or bring a pillow. They are not
needed as you can fashion one out of a stuff sack or jacket stuffed with spare
clothes. (Wrap the stuff sack with a sweater to make a softer, more comfortable
pillow.) |
 | You can
rent sleeping bags at recreational equipment stores until you determine what you
want. About $10 per weekend. |
 | Goose
down provides superior warmth per pound but is much costlier. It looses almost
all of its insulating power when wet and it dries slower than the synthetic
fiber bags. Goose down also needs more care. It is therefore not recommended for
young scouts. Stick with the synthetics. |
| |
|
| | A pad is
needed for both comfort and warmth. The ground is a good conductor of heat so
you need something under you just to keep warm. A 3/8" (or 1/2") thick closed
cell foam pad works best and is also indestructible. Choose a length (72" is
popular) that keeps your entire body off of the ground. |
 | Both blue foam and Ridge Rest® pads work
well. About $15. |
 | Therm-A-Rest® sleeping pads work well but are more costly
(about $60 for the Ultra Lite II), weight more, and are not as reliable. A small
pin hole can make it go flat and ruin a nights sleep. There is a 3/4 size (not
recommended) that is lighter at the expense of foot warmth. |
 | Younger Scouts should avoid Therm-A-Rest pads
as they weigh more (typically over 1 pound heavier) and are not as
reliable. |
| |
|
| | Nylon cord is used mainly to hang food in trees so
squirrels, raccoons, marmots, and bears cannot get to it. Other uses include as
a clothes line, making lashings, or even holding a tent up. |
| | Parachute cord is ideal but any 1/8" nylon cord is
fine. Length is not critical with 50' being the most popular length. 40' is a
bit too short. The optimum length is about 60'. Even longer lengths are ok but
they tend to knot up more (and weight more). About $3. |
 | A thicker cord like Dacron weighs more, costs
more, and does not provide any extra function. Occasionally a cord will get
stuck in a tree and have to be abandoned. Stick with the more economical 1/8"
nylon. |
| |
|
| | Day packs are used for peak climbs in lieu of the
normal backpack. A lightweight nylon pack is best but school book backpacks also
work. |
| | Day packs need to hold the 10
essentials, lunch and emergency clothing. Note that this is actually a lot of
stuff - first aid kit, flashlight, 1 or 2 quarts of water, lunch, poncho, rain
pants, jacket, wool hat, and trail snacks. Make sure that there is enough room
to fit all of the above and that the pack is rugged enough to withstand the
weight. |
 | If you
are handy, you can make a day pack from a stuff sack. Simply recycle pack straps
from an old wornout (school style) day pack by sewing them onto a stuff
sack. |
 | Scotchguard the day pack to enhance rain
repellency. |
 | Avoid
packs that you sling over one arm as they can throw you off balance when
scrambling over rocks. Stick with a backpack that has two straps. |
| |
|
| | You need to keep your pack dry. A large 30+
gallon plastic trash bag can be put over pack at night to fend off morning dew.
It is also used to keep the pack dry during a rain storm. It should be large
enough to cover the entire pack including the sleeping bag at the
bottom. |
 | Thicker
bags withstand the usage better and are worth the extra weight. |
 | If rain is possible, bring a second smaller
trash bag to put over your sleeping bag to make sure it will stay dry. |
| |
|
| | The tent will be supplied by the Troop. The Troop
has good 3 season tents. Each tent is shared by two people (tent buddies). Each
person will be given half of the tent to carry. The tent normally lies across
the top of pack under the top flap but it can also be strapped in with the
sleeping bag. |
 | You
want heavier items near your back so they do not pull the pack backward. The
tent on the top will put the center of gravity higher, and, since one tilts the
pack forward slightly, the center of gravity will be closer to you and the pack
will pull you back less. |
 | Good
lightweight tents are expensive. Use the tent provided by the Troop and avoid
buying a tent. Take the money saved and spend it on other equipment. In fact,
personal tents are not encouraged because we need to know that the tents will
stand up to significant rain, wind, and hail. (If you insist on a personal tent
it must be of good quality and it must be pre-approved by the Scoutmaster before
it is used.) |